Photographer's Impressions

Alex Levac

Photographed in Morocco in October 1994 and in May 1995

Portrait "One of the reasons why I was drawn to visit Morocco and photograph the Jews there was my wild imagination. I saw myself touring Casablanca with Humphrey Bogart, slipping through the dark alleys of the casbah, following the footsteps of Jews in exotic robes. I envisaged mysterious Jews guiding me at night under a full moon to gleaming white ancient cemeteries, where they would whisper prayers, melt lead and burn fragrant incense.
To my disappointment I discovered that the preconceived notions of a westerner with a fertile imagination are at odds with the realities of Morocco. The Jews I met there were different, less exotic, like those living in Beverly Hills-style mansions with servants and lavish swimming pools decorated with mosaics of dolphins. The alleyways of the mellah were almost empty of Jews - even the poor have moved to the city centers, and are indistinguishable from other Moroccans. The young people looked like MTV youth everywhere else.
On my travels, I visited mainly large cities. Everywhere I went, contact with the Jews was established through the community leaders, and thus it is possible that my photographs do not truly reflect the whole spectrum of the community, but focus on the more established Jews.
The Jewish community in Morocco now numbers less than 5,000 people and it is constantly dwindling due to emigration, mainly of young people who leave to study in France, Canada and Israel, and remain there. The Jews of Morocco tend to respect tradition but are not religiously observant. Nonetheless, community life is focused around the synagogues and social clubs. The Jews speak with nostalgia and longing of the wondrous past of the community, and continue to observe the rituals of saint worship.
I visited Morocco to seek Jews in gjalabiyas with pointed head-dresses like those sometimes seen at the mimouna celebrations in the Sacher Park in Jerusalem or the Charles Clore Park in Tel Aviv. I found one such figure in Casablanca. In Marrakesh I glimpsed a similar image from afar. I leaped after him as one who descends on a hoard of loot, but as I drew nearer I discovered it was the same Jew from Casablanca. I met him again at the hillula in Wassan.
And so, to my regret, I found that the folklore and exotica was concentrated in one single person."

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